Acids for Oily Skin: Which Ones to Add to Your Routine?

Acids are fantastic active ingredients for seborrheic skin. If you want to add them to your routine, we’re here to support you! However, with so many products on the market, it’s easy to get lost and choose something that your skin might not appreciate. And if you’re a beauty enthusiast, the risk of buying numerous products to test them all increases. We predict that you probably won’t find the right product this way, but it’s a great way to ruin your skin. To prevent this from happening, we write our articles.

So, let’s introduce you to the acids that are a perfect match for oily skin!

Salicylic Acid

Despite the rapid development of the cosmetics industry and the emergence of new active ingredients, salicylic acid remains a top favorite for seborrheic and acne-prone skin. And this is not surprising!

What makes it powerful?

• Penetrates deep into pores and dissolves sebum
• Brightens post-acne marks and evens out skin tone
• Smoothes microrelief
• Effective in fighting comedones
• Inhibits pathogenic microorganisms
• Reduces inflammation
• Regulates sebum production

How to use salicylic acid in your skincare?
Salicylic acid is most commonly found in toners, serums, peels, and cleansers. A concentration of 0.5%-2% in products is effective and sufficient for home use. Toners, serums, peels, and other active products with salicylic acid can be used every evening or several times a week, depending on your skin’s needs and sensitivity. Cleansers with salicylic acid can be safely used twice a day: both in the morning and evening. Salicylic acid, like any other acid, should be applied to completely dry, pre-cleaned skin and followed with restorative products.

Important Tip #1: Salicylic acid does not disrupt the microbiome or increase skin’s photosensitivity, but sun protection should always be part of your morning routine.

Important Tip #2: If your skin’s protective barrier is compromised, salicylic acid (like most other acids) can actually stimulate inflammation instead of calming it. Therefore, make sure your protective barrier is ready before introducing it into your routine.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is the darling of mature, pigmentation-prone skin. It remains a favorite among AHA acids, especially when it comes to skin renewal and combating photoaging. If your goal is smooth, radiant, and even-toned skin, glycolic acid can become a key element in your skincare.

What makes it powerful?

• Effectively exfoliates dead skin cells
• Brightens pigmentation and post-acne marks
• Smooths fine lines and wrinkles
• Improves microrelief and skin texture
• Evens out skin tone and gives a glow effect

How to use glycolic acid in your skincare?
Glycolic acid is most commonly found in toners, peels, and serums. A concentration of 5% to 10% is effective for home use, but beginners should start with lower concentrations to avoid irritation. Toners and serums with glycolic acid can be used every evening or several times a week, depending on your skin type and its reaction. Remember that AHA acids, including glycolic acid, should be applied to completely dry, pre-cleaned skin, and followed with moisturizing and restorative products.

Important Tip #1: Glycolic acid increases skin’s photosensitivity, so sunscreen in the morning is a must.

Important Tip #2: Due to its high permeability, glycolic acid has a high irritation potential, so it is best avoided for sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, or skin prone to rosacea. Also, it’s better not to start your acid journey with glycolic acid but to choose milder options instead.

Important Tip #3: Before introducing glycolic acid into your routine, work on strengthening your skin’s protective barrier and microbiome. If the skin barrier is compromised, there is a high risk of irritation and worsening skin condition.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is a gentle and delicate AHA acid, ideal for oily skin, especially for those just beginning to explore acids. Due to its large molecular weight, it acts more slowly and gently, minimizing the risk of irritation, making it a great choice for sensitive and problematic skin. By the way, if your skin is prone to acne but doesn’t get along with salicylic acid, mandelic acid is a great alternative.

What makes it powerful?

• Gently exfoliates
• Reduces inflammation thanks to its antibacterial properties
• Evens out skin texture and microrelief
• Brightens post-acne marks
• Evens out skin tone and eliminates dullness
• Regulates sebum production (the only AHA acid that does)

How to use mandelic acid in your skincare?
Mandelic acid, like most AHA acids, is available in toners, peels, or serums. A concentration of 5% to 10% is recommended for beginners. Mandelic acid does not increase photosensitivity, so it’s one of the few acids that can be used not only in the evening but also in the morning. For the morning routine, it’s better to use products with mandelic acid concentration below 10%. Like all acids, it should be applied to dry, pre-cleaned skin and followed with moisturizing products.

Important Tip #1: A combination of mandelic acid with vitamin C is effective for post-acne treatment, enhancing the brightening effect and helping to even out skin tone.

Important Tip #2: If your skin is sensitive or you’re new to acids, mandelic acid is a perfect choice because it acts more slowly and gently than other acids.

LHA Acid (Capryloyl Salicylic Acid)

While you may have heard about the other acids mentioned in this article, this one might be a new discovery. LHA (Capryloyl Salicylic Acid) is an innovative analog of salicylic acid that combines exfoliating and soothing effects. Due to its gentle action, this acid is ideal for oily yet sensitive skin.

What makes it powerful?

• Exfoliates only cells that need exfoliation
• Has antimicrobial effects
• Reduces inflammation
• Regulates sebum production

How to use LHA acid in your skincare?
LHA acid is most commonly found in serums and toners. It is well-suited for oily, sensitive skin that needs a particularly delicate approach. LHA should be used exclusively in the evening routine on pre-cleaned and dry skin.

Important Tip #1: Due to its delicate and selective action, LHA acid gradually improves the skin’s condition. Visible results from its use come more slowly than with salicylic acid, but the likelihood of irritation is minimized.

Pyruvic Acid

Another helper for oily skin that isn’t yet popular is pyruvic acid. Pyruvic acid is an alpha-keto acid that works effectively with oily and problematic skin. It penetrates deeper into the epidermis than AHA acids, but not as deeply into pores as BHA acids. It combines properties that make it useful in combating acne, excessive sebum production, and uneven skin tone.

What makes it powerful?

• Regulates sebum production
• Brightens post-acne marks and evens out skin tone
• Has antibacterial properties
• Reduces inflammation
• Smoothes microrelief and improves skin texture

How to use pyruvic acid in your skincare?
Pyruvic acid is most likely found in peels, toners, and serums, often in combination with other acids. It can be used several times a week or every evening, depending on your skin’s needs. The acid should be applied to dry, pre-cleaned skin, followed by moisturizing and soothing products.

Important Tip #1: Like all acids, pyruvic acid increases skin’s sensitivity to UV, so be sure to use sunscreen with SPF in the morning.

Important Tip #2: If your skin’s protective barrier is compromised, pyruvic acid can cause irritation.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is definitely a top choice if, in addition to oiliness, you’re also concerned about pigmentation. It’s a powerful brightening active ingredient that affects melanin production and is perfect for correcting post-acne marks.

What makes it powerful?

• Brightens pigmentation and evens out skin tone
• Has antioxidant effects
• Has anti-inflammatory properties
• Exfoliates dead skin cells and smooths relief

How to use kojic acid in your skincare?
Kojic acid is most commonly found in serums, creams, and masks designed to combat pigmentation. The recommended concentration for home use is 1-4%. Like most acids, it’s better to use it in your evening routine, and always apply sunscreen in the morning.

Important Tip #1: Kojic acid is effective, but its action can be somewhat slow, so results should be expected with regular use over several weeks.

Important Tip #2: Kojic acid increases skin’s photosensitivity, so sunscreen must be part of your routine.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a universal active ingredient suitable for many skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. It’s a comfortable and multifunctional ingredient even used in acne treatment regimens.

What makes it powerful?

• Reduces inflammation and soothes the skin
• Fights acne-causing bacteria
• Brightens post-acne marks and pigmentation
• Reduces sebum production
• Evens out skin texture
• Supports a healthy microbiome

How to use azelaic acid in your skincare?
Azelaic acid is most commonly found in creams and gels with concentrations of 15% or 20%. If your skin is comfortable with it, azelaic acid can be used daily. Choose azelaic acid if, in addition to oily skin, you’re concerned about breakouts, redness, and post-acne marks. It effectively evens out tone and reduces inflammation.

Important Tip #1: It’s important to note that it can increase skin sensitivity, so those using it for the first time should start with less frequent applications to avoid potential irritation.

Important Tip #2: As with other active ingredients, regularity is key to achieving the best results. Azelaic acid works gradually, with noticeable changes appearing after a few weeks of regular use.

More about acids and their importance in skincare — read here